Rummaging: The Thrift Store
Or, Steampunk attire on a biscuit budget
DVSS Members at the Colorado Railroad Museum
You’d like to build a Steampunk outfit, but don’t know where to begin?
Have few sewing skills, but need some trousers and a vest? Looking for dress accessories that say Steampunk!?
Rummage.
One of the better Rummaging Enterprises is your local thrift store. In the Denver area, we're lucky to have the ARC stores peppered throughout the metrosprawl. Their prices are a little better than Goodwill stores, and they have the added advantage of having most of their inventory on a 50% discount on Saturdays.
Rummaging requires strategies to be a success. You're not going to pop in and find the perfect cotton eyelet bedskirt every Saturday. It takes frequent trips, and the focus to keep looking.
Be methodical. Have a routine; for instance, consistently check the same categories of goods every time you walk into the store. I'm always looking for serving dishes for Teas and Absinthe Minded parties, so I start in the glassware sections. There are often good fabrics in the curtains (home dec weights are usually better for historically-inspired clothing), and I look at bedskirts for embroidered or eyelet ruffles. I'm always looking for belts - leather, ornate - and I check out the scarves and hats, too.
Make an afternoon of it and hit two or three stores, for the best selection.
Know what you're looking for, the "hand" or feel of the fabric or good clothing labels. Use your smart phone if you need to do a little research.
Saturday sales will make the best use of your thrifting budget.
Thrift store purchases are often not refundable if you want to return something. However, they do give you store credit if you return unused items within their guidelines.
Never wait to buy. It won't be there if you go back later. Conversely, don't wait until the week before the con to start shopping.
Put it in your cart if you even think that you'll want it. You can put it back later if you change your mind. Also keep an eye on your cart; I've had stuff disappear from out of it.
The possibilities at a thrift store are virtually endless. If you're just beginning to assemble clothing, the thrift store is great place to start. There are distinctive profiles that say "Victorian", and you'll want to look for basic separates that communicate the impression. We're going to focus on the 1890's for women, because the profile is fairly easy to achieve with modern clothing. On the other hand, men's styles haven't really changed in the past 150 years, so the thrift store is a great place to start for the gentlemen. Then add the dress accessories; they really make the impression and contribute to the neo-Victorian authenticity of the outfit.
Ladies 1890s
Profile
Long skirts that flare from the waist to a wide hem, in pinstripes, plaids, or solids. The front of the skirt was usually flat, with the fullness at the back center. Skirts with a casing waistline might be able to be modded. Typical colors are deep or bright; avoid pastels and most prints. Hem ruffles are a plus. Layer light colored skirts under dark skirts and tuck up the overskirts for a rakish look.
White cotton tops, typically long-sleeved, although short or puffy sleeves are fine for Steampunk. Even sleeveless, if you're daring. Look for details like full sleeve tops, pintucks, ruffles and lace. High collars look great with a necktie of several sorts; mandarin and wingtip collars are authentic. The visual weight of the top should be at the shoulder level and trim around the bustline and waist.
Dress accessories
Waistcoat - similar to men's, the typical style is high collar without points at the front waist. However, ladies have more leeway as to styling. Consider changing out buttons for quick bling.
Jacket - Bolero jackets were popular, as were Eaton jackets - waist-length, full at the shoulders. There are some out there that have some militaristic details, that can be easily modded - or molded - to Steampunk. Look also for "princess" lines - shaping that fits the jacket to the body. Peplums and ruffles are a bonus.
Neckwear - women wore string ties and cravats, both of which are frequently seen in the men's section at the thrift store.
Hats - Victorian ladies usually wore hats much higher on the head than we do; smaller size hats will work great. Also, boaters were popular for sporting. Look in the men's department for pit helmets or newsboy caps, too.
Jewelry - speaking of cravats, cravat pins are graceful additions. Look for short stick pins in the jewelry case. Necklaces, rings, and earrings were also commonly worn.
Gloves - anything goes, but I'd avoid shiny stretchy fabrics. They look too modern.
Handkerchiefs - you'll find handkerchiefs in the table linens; apparently they're easy to confuse with napkins. And if you do find linen napkins - real linen, not cotton or poly - let me know.
Belts - real leather looks best, and pre-owned looks well-worn. Look for anything fancy, with studs or braiding or cutouts for interest. Check the men's department. Sling them below your waist, or cinch about your ribcage for a corseted look. Belts were used for holding things other than pants 100 years ago; I have a holster for mine, and also tuck a fan in my belt. Lay your gloves over your belt when you're not wearing them, or tuck overskirts up into belts. (I recommend strategically placed pins for either of these arrangements.)
Shoes - pointed toes, slight to moderate heel. Personally, I dislike zippers, but sometimes the right boot comes along with a zipper and what are you going to do? Riding boots look great and are easy on the feet for a day of con walking. I highly recommend spending some of what you're saving at the thrift store, on an excellent pair of insoles.
Reticule - the lady's purse. Usually small, ornate and lacy or beaded. You're more likely nowadays to find a small leather shoulder bag in an industrial style.
Walking stick - I haven't seen any of these at the thrift stores, but it can't hurt to look, right?
Men's Genera-Victorian
Profile
Flat-front trousers, in pinstripes, plaids, or solids. Look for dress slacks. Wool slacks are great. Cotton twills or chinos are perfect for the working Steampunk, and easy to add lampasses to for the militaristic look. They can be larger than your usual waist size, if you want to do the authentic thing and wear them with suspenders. Remove the belt loops and sew on buttons; clip-on suspenders are a later invention. Trousers were worn above the waistline.
Tuxedo shirt, with wing-tip collar.
A vest or waistcoat; it could be plain or fancy, single- or double-breasted. Victorian vests had higher necklines and didn't usually have the front center points. A gentleman's pants waistline was never visible.
Dress accessories
Coats - long duster-style for the dashing airship captain look; shorter suit-coat looks for more sedate wear. Avoid anything with shoulder pads; they were really popular 20 years ago, so they're all over the thrift stores. Or simply remove them. The cut will still be generous, but not supported.
Hats - you'll find pageboy caps at the thrift stores. For a good top hat, you'll likely need to buy new, and on-line.
Neckwear - cravats are typical and often available. Narrow ties were also popular, but avoid the modern tie.
Suspenders - find suspenders with button loops and as little elastic as possible.
Jewelry - cravat pins and rings were common.
Gloves - standard white gloves for dress; any number of other styles are likely for gents. Fingerless gloves are easily created from normal leather gloves - just cut off the top half of the fingers.
Belts - real leather looks best, and pre-owned looks well-worn. They're not for holding your trousers up; sling them below your waist, and thread a holster or pouch on them Fold your gloves over them when your not wearing them. Use several at once.
Shoes - look for pointed toe simple dress shoes.
Handkerchiefs - an indispensable gent's accessory. I recommend Ross stores for men's hankies. I've picked up monogrammed ones at Ross for the guys. But you might find them in the thrift store, like the ladies versions, in the table linens. Inexplicable, but there you are.
Other stuff that can be modded
Almost any garment with buttons can benefit from some new buttons. Look for them at the fabric stores, but be sure to have the coupons or get in on sales. Or find clothing at the thrift store that is only good for its buttons and discard the garment. Buttons are expensive.
Bedskirts are an excellent source for flounces. A twin bedskirt has 5 or 6 yards of flounce. Look for embroidered white ruffles, or eyelet. They run about $5.
If you're up to making your own, curtain panels are a good source for yardage - especially if sets are available. Cotton twills are usually available and make good skirts. Sheers are also good for draperies and graceful puffs. Occasionally, embroidered silk shows up which has found its way into cravats and long scarves.
Speaking of curtains, a good number have beaded or tasseled trims that can be removed and re-sourced as trims.
Sheer long-sleeved tops - even if they don't fit - work great for glovettes; just cut off the sleeves as far above the cuffs as your want the length to be. Hand-hem the top edge. You may need to narrow the sleeves to fit your arm's profile.
Jackets are easily shortened to bolero-length, if you're handy with a sewing machine.
Best of luck on your Rummaging Experiences!
Melanie Unruh