On Authenticity
Or, how to look like a real Steampunk.
DVSS Members at the Denver Botanic Gardens
The word authenticity brings to mind a painstaking, faithful reproduction of an original, but since the Neo-Victorian and Steampunk community generally engages in a fantasy form of sartorial arts, there’s no actual original to reproduce. Certainly, there are the Victorian British or American dress forms that we like to use as our foundation, but in the Steampunk world, we’re trying for something a bit different, a bit sideways.
So, what exactly do we mean by “authentic”? And why is it important?
Authenticity also means being actually and exactly what is claimed.
When one dresses - and especially in clothing for a particular purpose - one claims membership in a community. Sometimes, that’s the community in the office, or the community of people who enjoy trekking mountain trails. Wearing an evening dress to a baseball game extracts a person from the culture of baseball fans, and maybe it’s a faux pas or maybe it’s intentional.
For us, it’s very intentional.
Of course, “costuming” is pretty common in today’s general society. Besides elaborate Halloween celebrations, costume is present at many community events such as Pride parades, or Onesie Nights on Blake Street. We tend to think of costume as a thing that someone puts on for one purpose, for a night or an event, and then discards to the back of the closet or to the thrift store.
In the so-called costuming community, costumes might be made to express a theme or emulate a character in popular media. We usually call this cosplay. Cosplay can be authentic, in the faithful reproduction sense. Check out Michael Sheridan’s Captain Jack, for instance.
A costume can be art.
For most folx in the historic costuming community, we elevate the “costume” concept to one of authenticity - that what we’re wearing actually and exactly marks us as an impression of the time and place that we’re representing; one that includes DVSS folx as members in the Steampunk community. In short, we’re wearing historic clothing; clothing that is similar enough to historically authentic clothing to be described as historically accurate, (or historically adjacent) or HA.
What makes clothing HA?
A couple of simple concepts that are not quite as simple to produce.
Fit, construction, fabrics - HA clothing is high quality, using good fabrics that approximate what was worn in “period”. The forms are correct for the time/place, and the fitting is custom. Undergarments are tailored to provide an accurate profile. The clothing worn should be comfortable, and something that the wearer isn’t fussing with - because in period, these clothes would have been “normal”.
Details and dress accessories - in today’s clothing industry, details are seriously lacking. We’re not used to wearing clothing with intricate detailing, because that work costs labor to produce. Historic clothing featured details, and especially Victorian clothing used ruches, ruffles, tucks, contrasting piping, pleats, lacing, pinking, and innumerable other materials and techniques to achieve layers of details. These details create an aura of authenticity.
Additionally, dress accessories also contribute to the layers of details. Virtually everyone wore hats, or veils, or had hair dressing of some sort. Loose flowing locks worked for feminine Artistic Dress but historically almost nothing else. Jewelry, gloves, and belts were worn by most people since the beginning of the clothing timeline. Parasols, walking sticks, armor such as vambraces and pauldrons, and belt holsters for parasols, tea cups, or even weapons are Steampunk markers. Shoes, spatterdashes, and stockings are all part of the overall historically authentic impression - nothing breaks the image worse than a pair of Nikes peeping out from under your skirts.
These concepts and measures require investment. It’s said that in any project, one has three resources that are available - time, money, and quality. You get to spend two.
Of course, we advocate for quality; there are two primary ways of achieveing a quality, authentic impression.
If you want high fashion and dress accessories quicky, you will have to spend money for them. Please support community makers and artists with your cash.
If you aren’t so cash-flush, plan to spend time on creating a quality impression, and learn some thrifting and maker skills on the way. Many of our most “authentic” folx achieve fabulous wardrobes with a combination of thrifting and purchasing statement pieces from the maker community that surrounds Steampunk.
However, quality and authenticity are goals, and we believe that everyone starts somewhere and all efforts are acceptible. Thrifting is a great way to start into creating an authentic impression, and we encourage anyone by frequent presentations of “The Parsimonious Steampunk” panel at most conventions we attend.
And remember, Neo-Victorian attire is always admired but never required at DVSS events.